Targets were set - 160+ lifers for South-east Asia; 40+ lifers for Southern Africa; 200+ lifers for the six weeks. Plus lots of "ticks in the box of life" adventures, including orangutans in the wild, the Victoria Falls, the Okavango Delta, the Chobe River and NP, white-water rafting on the Zambezi, Cape Town, Cape Point, Table Mountain, Robben Island, and the Drakensberg Mountains.
Twelve months of planning later, everything was set. Flights and accommodation had been confirmed; professional bird guides in Malaysian Borneo, Singapore and Zimbabwe had been booked; tours had been locked in; birding attire had been purchased; the Southern African birding app had been downloaded; the light-weight MacBook Air (complete with iPhotos) and two birding field guides for Malaysian Borneo and South-east Asia had been bought; the camera had been cleaned, waxed and polished; the lovely wife had a few new outfits; and we were set!
And so, on 29 September 2014, Pots boarded Singapore airlines flight SQ278, and headed north on what hopefully would be a birding trip of a life-time. To say that I was pumped would be an understatement!
Seven hours later I booked into the Changi Transit Hotel, had a quiet meal in the terminal and then hit the sack in preparation for the flight to Kota Kinabalu (KK), Malaysian Borneo, the next morning.
Our first afternoon was spent birding along the coastline around KK, and despite the heat and humidity (31 degrees and very sticky), the birdlife was very much in evidence. Being in a new country/continent and going birding can be a little dis-orientating initially - so few of the calls are recognisable. Everything is different. Fortunately, being with CK made all the difference. My first lifer was the Blue-naped Parrot, not a bad sighting to start with! This was quickly followed by Pied Fantail, Chestnut Munia, Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker, Ashy Tailorbird, Pied Triller and, my first endemic (E) for the trip, Dusky Munia.
We then headed to a local estuary, where we were able to snag great views of a Chinese Egret. Getting it standing next to a Little Egret made comparisons easy and the differences evident. Finally we finished up at a local wetland where we had good views of Cinnamon Bittern, Striated Grassbird and Black-backed Swamp-hen. CK then dropped me off a my hotel, told me to get a good night's sleep and that he would pick me up at 5:00am for a road trip to Rafflesia and then on to Mount Kinabalu. Noting the lifers that I had already seen, something whispered in my ear that I was in for a brilliant time! I down-loaded my photos onto my Mac Air, played around with iPhotos, decided that my purchase was going to be a splendid acquisition (which it proved to be), and then went to sleep. Trip total - 31; Lifers - 12 (Endemcis - 1)
Chinese Egret Blue-naped Parrot
Chesnut Munia
Immature Nankeen Night Heron
Eastern Reef Egret Black-crowned Night Heron
The morning was quite misty at first, and there were few calls, but soon birds began flitting past, and some hung around enough for us to identify them - well for me to identify them, as CK had already done so as soon as they appeared. Ashy Drongo, Little Cuckoo-Dove and Chestnut-crested Yuhinas, the latter an endemic, were my first lifers for the day. Then CK somehow spotted a tiny bird some 200m away sitting quietly on a branch on the edge of a high ridge (I am not embellishing!) and set up his scope for a better look. He excitedly called me over to view a Whitehead's Spiderhunter, another endemic and a much sought after species by birders. While we were watching this wonderful little bird, a Mountain Imperial Pigeon flew over, and my life list kept growing.
Moving further down the road from Rafflesia, we found a lovely little spot near a shrine and sacred waterfall where we quickly picked up Chestnut-hooded Laughing Thrush (E), Verditer Flycatcher, Black and Crimson Oriole (lovely!), Bornean Spiderhunter (E), Ochraceous Bulbul, White-throated Fantail and I almost tripped over a Bornean Forktail (E) which scattered to the winds. Apparently, these very flighty birds are hard to see. Happy Pots!
We retraced our steps and entered the Centre and settled ourselves down to wait for the birds to cross the gap from the mountains to the west and the forest around Rafflesia to the east. Apparently, this is the best way to spot at the Centre. Breakfast was provided - an assortment of breads and condiments (thanks CK), and the waiting began. Over the next couple of hours we picked up a surprising (to me!) number of species which included the following lifers - Little Pied Flycatcher, Gold-whiskered Barbet, Temminck's Sunbird, Bornean Brown Barbet (E), Blyth's Hawk Eagle, Mountain Barbet (E), Black-sided Flowerpecker (E), Sunda Cuckoo-Shrike, Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike, Grey-chinned Minivet, Bornean Barbet (E), Dark-capped White-eye, Bornean Bulbul (E), Cinereous Bulbul, Bornean Treepie (E) and Sunda Laughing-Thrush, along with a number of other species. CK was very patient, helping me to identify calls and he gave me a benevolent smile when I did't ask "what bird is that?" when the Yellow-vented Bulbul called - one of the most common and most recognisable birds in SE Asia. Yes! One species locked into the memory bank! Unfortunately, the overcast conditions and the tendency for most of the birds to forage high in the canopy made photographing them fairly difficult. The best I could do was a Cinereous Bulbul that came to have a closer look at us!
Soon after lunch we moved on, heading to Mount Kinabalu, the highest mountain in Malaysian Borneo, and home to a select number of highly sought after birds. We ticked Grey-rumped Treeswifts on the way and arrived in Mount Kinabalu mid-afternoon. The weather didn't look overly encouraging, but we quickly headed into the National Park and prepared to enter the forest. As we did so, we met a number of forest guides, who made it clear that CK was highly respected by them - I was impressed with the way these Malaysians honoured their elders, something we Aussies could emulate a little more at times!
We only had a short time to bird as heavy rain seemed imminent. We headed down a lovely track in the forest and were soon rewarded with Eye-browed Jungle-Flycatcher (E) and Grey-throated Babbler. A little further on CK spotted movement on the track ahead of us and we were thrilled to have cracking views of Crimson-headed Partridge, another special endemic.
And then the rain came ..... and that was the end of any birding! We headed back to the hotel, had a quiet dinner (chicken and noodles) and I then worked on my photos before falling to sleep at about 8:30pm. Mike had been a busy boy and he was stuffed! Trip Total - 66; Lifers - 43 (Endemics - 15)
Day Three - (2nd October) and the weather was looking dodgy on the mountain. We headed up towards the Timpohon gate where aspiring mountain climbers commenced the trek to the peak of Mount Kinabalu (4,095m). On the way we were really fortunate to come across an Everett's Thrush foraging on the side of the road. These endemic, scarce and very shy birds are a big tick on the mountain, so this was a great way to start the day. We got out of the car at the gate to be greeted by montane forest and persistent drizzling rain. CK seemed a little concerned that we might "dip" on one of the main targets in this area, the Mountain Blackeye. And he was right! Fortunately, the rain eased after about an hour and the birds began to appear. I picked up Sunda Bush Warbler, the very pretty Indigo Flycatcher, Bornean Whistling-Thrush (E), Blyth's Shrike-Babbler, Mountain Leaf-Warbler, Snowy-browed Flycatcher, Bornean Whistler (E), Pale-faced Bulbul, and Golden-naped Barbet (E). We headed back to the hotel for breakfast (noodles with chicken) pretty satisfied with our morning's work. No Blackeye, but plenty of great birds and a couple of half-decent photos.
White-throated Fantail Indigo Flycatcher
Bornean Treepie Pale-faced Bulbul
We headed out after breakfast determined to find a few of the "specialties", including the endemics Whitehead's Broadbill and the Fruithunter. Travelling back up to the montane rainforest below Timophon gate, we walked the main road listening for calls in the still misty conditions. Suddenly CK grabbed his scope and set it up excitedly. Looking through, I was both stunned with the bird I was looking at and the fact that CK had spotted it in the first place. Sitting quietly on a branch some fifty metres from us was a Whitehead's Broadbill. I would never have found it by myself ...... ever. I just looked at CK. He shrugged enigmatically. I then took the world's worst photo of the Broadbill but I'm posting it just to prove I saw it! Over-excitement required a brief toilet break, but this was interrupted by CK's yell to come running. A quick adjustment and I was on my way, to discover a pair of Fruithunters foraging happily above the track. We also spotted another endemic, the Bornean Green Magpie, along with the Hair-crested Drongo. A great morning! But no Mountain Blackeye .......
Whitehead's Broadbill
Lunch (chicken with noodles) was a very pleasant affair. We then headed back to the mountain but this time stayed around the rainforest on the lower slopes. This immediately paid dividends with White-browed Shortwing, Bornean Stubtail (E), Yellow-breasted Warbler and then a pair of Red-breasted Partridge, another of our target endemics. We also chased a Crimson-winged Woodpecker around a tree but I failed to get a decent look at it. CK just looked at me. The rain came again and we retreated, not unhappy with a fair day's birding. Dinner (noodles and beef) was quickly devoured and bed called! Trip Total - 100; Lifers - 61 (Endemics 25).
Day Four (3rd October) dawned and we had a long drive ahead of us to reach the Rainforest Discovery Centre at Sepilok. However, we decided to have one more go at the Blackeye. We got to Timophon Gate to be greeted by not one sound! The gate is at the lowest altitude that the Blackeye comes down the mountain. Probably higher up, we agreed. Let's head to Sepilok, we agreed. And then a lone call - Mountain Blackeye! Scanning the canopy above us, we finally found it ....... and then a whole family of them appeared. Joy! Final tick for the mountain - and it was back in the car and on the road to Sepilok after a quick breakfast (beef and noodles).
Four hours and a quick lunch later (noodles and chicken), we arrived at the Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC). We booked in at the Sepilok B&B (a fantastic place - the accommodation is first rate) and then headed out into the lowland equatorial rainforest of eastern Malaysian Borneo. The change in climate from the mountain was stark - as was the rainforest. Birds were evident everywhere and I realised that I was going to have to adjust my concentration. Rather than stalking bird calls on the mountain, there was a lot of movement here that needed constant attention. We immediately picked up Lesser Green Leafbird, Little Spiderhunter, Plain Sunbird, Bold-striped Tit-Babbler (very nice!) and Rufous-tailed Tailorbird.
And then our birding was interrupted - a noise above our heads caused us to look up. And there were two wild orangutans looking back down at us. I was STOKED! Orangutans are on the world's endangered list due to the uncontrolled destruction of their habitat in Borneo, and seeing one was as high on my list as any of the awesome birds of this region. I knew there was a sanctuary nearby, but I really wanted to see them in the wild, and here were two of them not twenty metres from me. YES!! Major bucket list target accomplished.
Wild Orangutans!
Once I had calmed down, we reverted our attention to the birds around us, and came across what we dubbed the Woodpecker Tree. We saw a Crimson-winged Woodpecker (making up for my miss on Mt Kinabalu) and then we both spotted another species. As we began to describe what we were seeing, which did not match at all, we soon realised that we were looking at different birds! CK changed his scope and confirmed that I was looking at a Rufous Woodpecker, which was lovely! We then turned to look at his bird, which was a Grey and Buff Woodpecker, but unfortunately it flew off before I got a decent look. Ah well!
With the remaining moments, we worked our way through the forest, ticking off Greater Racquet-tailed Drongo, a bird that would become a constant companion over the next few days, as well as a Yellow-rumped Flowerpecker, our first endemic for the RDC. Back at the B&B we had a quiet dinner (chicken and noodles) and then it was off to bed with me dreaming about the day to come. Trip Total - 116; Lifers - 72 (Endemics - 27)
Day 5 (4th October) - we awoke to a beautiful morning and headed straight to the canopy walk at the RDC. CK settled himself in on the top viewing point and I realised that we wouldn't be moving much! Well, the birding was awesome! The parade was lead by a beautiful Yellow-eared Spiderhunter and then a Grey and Buff Woodpecker (which I missed the evening before). They were followed by Green Iora, Red-thtroated Sunbird, crippling views of Bushy-crested Hornbill, Javan Myna, White-bellied Woodpecker, Yellow-vented and Orange-bellied Flowerpeckers, Hill Myna, Violet Cuckoo (stunning), Long-tailed Parakeet flocks flying overhead, Fiery Minivet (both male and female are simply magnificent), Rhinoceros Hornbill (now that's a bill!), Crested Serpent Eagle and, the great spot of the morning, Bornean Bristlehead, a scarce endemic and very high on the "must see" list. And then, to top it all off, a mother and baby orangutan appeared, climbed the canopy walk and then casually headed off into the forest.
Yellow-eared Spiderhunter
I couldn't imagine that the post-breakfast (noodles and beef), had any chance of matching the early morning, but I was wrong. We worked our way through the forest spotting Ruby-cheeked Sunbird and Dark-throated Oriole, when we heard a call coming from some distance away. CK looked at me and said, "Red-naped Trogon!". Now, I love birding of all kinds, but Trogons have a special place in my heart ever since I first saw the Narina Trogon in Nairobi, and later, the Bar-tailed Trogon in the Kakamega Forest of western Kenya. Trogons, along with Pittas, were definitely my highest priority target birds, so CK's pronouncement caused the adrenaline to go into overdrive.
So we went Trogon hunting. We worked our way along the forest tracks until we found a small side track that seemed to lead directly to where the Trogon was calling. I was antsy to sat the least, praying that it wouldn't fly off or cease calling. We slowed down, which didn't help my anxiety, moving quietly closer. And then we turned a corner of the track and there it was, sitting happily on a branch about ten metres from the edge of the track in perfect view. What a bird! What stunning colours! I sat down, settled myself against the base of a tree, and began to take photos. Happy Mike!
Day 5 (4th October) - we awoke to a beautiful morning and headed straight to the canopy walk at the RDC. CK settled himself in on the top viewing point and I realised that we wouldn't be moving much! Well, the birding was awesome! The parade was lead by a beautiful Yellow-eared Spiderhunter and then a Grey and Buff Woodpecker (which I missed the evening before). They were followed by Green Iora, Red-thtroated Sunbird, crippling views of Bushy-crested Hornbill, Javan Myna, White-bellied Woodpecker, Yellow-vented and Orange-bellied Flowerpeckers, Hill Myna, Violet Cuckoo (stunning), Long-tailed Parakeet flocks flying overhead, Fiery Minivet (both male and female are simply magnificent), Rhinoceros Hornbill (now that's a bill!), Crested Serpent Eagle and, the great spot of the morning, Bornean Bristlehead, a scarce endemic and very high on the "must see" list. And then, to top it all off, a mother and baby orangutan appeared, climbed the canopy walk and then casually headed off into the forest.
Yellow-eared Spiderhunter
Bushy-crested Hornbill
Fiery Minivet (female)
Fiery Minivet (male)
Rhinoceros Hornbill
I couldn't imagine that the post-breakfast (noodles and beef), had any chance of matching the early morning, but I was wrong. We worked our way through the forest spotting Ruby-cheeked Sunbird and Dark-throated Oriole, when we heard a call coming from some distance away. CK looked at me and said, "Red-naped Trogon!". Now, I love birding of all kinds, but Trogons have a special place in my heart ever since I first saw the Narina Trogon in Nairobi, and later, the Bar-tailed Trogon in the Kakamega Forest of western Kenya. Trogons, along with Pittas, were definitely my highest priority target birds, so CK's pronouncement caused the adrenaline to go into overdrive.
So we went Trogon hunting. We worked our way along the forest tracks until we found a small side track that seemed to lead directly to where the Trogon was calling. I was antsy to sat the least, praying that it wouldn't fly off or cease calling. We slowed down, which didn't help my anxiety, moving quietly closer. And then we turned a corner of the track and there it was, sitting happily on a branch about ten metres from the edge of the track in perfect view. What a bird! What stunning colours! I sat down, settled myself against the base of a tree, and began to take photos. Happy Mike!
Red-naped Trogon!
As we happily headed back to the entrance of the RDC, picking up Slender-billed Crow along the way, we discovered that the afternoon was going to be taken up with a live concert in the forest by local Malaysian music groups. While we accepted that this would be a worthy event, it meant that birding would be significantly compromised. "Why don't we go to Gomantong?", suggested CK. "What's at Gomantong?", I replied. "Birds and no concerts", said CK. "Lead on!", said Mike. We grabbed lunch (chicken and noodles) at a local roadside restaurant which was very pleasant, although one very elderly gentlemen seemed to stare stonily at me for the entire time I ate, which was rather un-nerving. We reached Gomantong mid-afternoon, drove in a few kilometres, parked on the side of the road, waved to motor cyclists flying past us, and began to bird.
I had never heard of Gomantong, but I will never forget it now! Two hours later my bird list included Diard's Trogon (gorgeous), White-crowned Shama (E), Raffles Malkoha, Wallace's Hawk Eagle, Scarlet-rumped Trogon (stunning), Dusky Broadbill, Red-throated Barbet, Blue-throated Bee-eater, Oriental Pied Hornbill and Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot.
Diard's Trogon
Then .... a Pitta called. "Black and Crimson Pitta", said CK. "Very hard to find", he added. An hour later, we had basically walked all around the darn thing without seeing it. VERY frustrating! Eventually, we gave up in disgust and headed back to the main road. And then another one called from the other side of the track. We looked at each other. We agreed - a quick look only and then move on. We peered in, looking for the Pitta on the ground. After about five minutes we finally found it - sitting three metres off the ground, deep in the shade about fifteen metres from us. I took a snap which won't win any awards, but I now had a Pitta and three Trogons on the list and I was ecstatic!
Black and Crimson Pitta
But Gomantong hadn't finished showing off. It was nearing evening, so we headed to the caves that Gomantong is famous for hoping to "jag" a Bat Hawk. We arrived just in time to see thousands upon thousands of bats leaving the caves for a night of foraging in the forest. And then the Hawks appeared, diving through the swarms of bats in the evening sky. It was very similar to watching a school of salmon being attacked by sharks. It was fascinating! Then a Brahminy Kite joined in, but it clearly did not have either the speed or the turning ability to be very effective. Finally a pair of Peregrines swooped in at great speed, snatching bats and devouring them high up in the forest canopy. To finish the evening off, a Black Hornbill turned up right near us and posed for photos. We headed back to Sepilok with the young padawan birder (POTS) almost emotionally spent from all of the highlights! What a day! Trip Total - 151; Lifers - 105 (Endemics - 30)
Black Hornbill
Day 6 (5th October) - Our final day in Sepilok was slightly more sedate than the frenzy of Day 5. Not that there weren't lots of birds! We picked up three new Spiderhunter species (Thick-billed, Spectacled and Long-billed), Black and Yellow Broadbill, Red-bearded Bee-eater (stunning), Rufous-backed Kingfisher (wow!), Mossy-nest Swiftlet, Chestnut-winged Babbler, Wreathed Hornbill, Lesser Cuckoo-Shrike, White-bellied Erpornis, Black-naped Monarch and Rufous-winged Philentoma. Finally, CK dropped me off at the Sandakan airport for the short flight back to KK. It had been a wonderful time, and that little voice that told me in KK that I was going to have a marvellous time must have been feeling pretty smug by the time I sat down in the airport. My grateful thanks go to CK - he was an awesome guide, great company, and an outstanding ambassador for his country. If you ever go to Malaysian Borneo and want to see the extraordinary avi-fauna that it offers, contact CK - he is GOLD! I fell into my bed when I got back to KK totally spent but firmly entrenched in my happy place. What a great first part of my mega-birding trip. Bring on Singapore and the Malaysian Peninsula! Trip Total - 165; Lifers - 120 (Endemics - 30).
What an awesome start to your trip! Enjoyed your report and the fantastic birds and images. Looking forward to the next instalment!
ReplyDeleteThanks John!
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