As an aside, our life lists for Australia at the beginning of the trip stood thus - David (560), Mike (540), Steve (532). Now it is important to note that there was absolutely no thought of competition in our minds. Such base behaviour is unfitting for serious bird-watchers, and we were all just happy to see as many as we could while celebrating each other's successes ............
The Cairns foreshore is a prolific birding spot - waders, sea-birds mangrove species, bush species and "urban" species. Highlights were Double-eyed Fig Parrot, Pied Imperial Pigeon, Blue-faced Honeyeater, Whimbrel, White-breasted Woodswallow, Helmeted Friarbird (new for David) and two lifers for Mike (Numbers 8 and 9) and Steve - Varied Honeyeater and Mangrove Robin. Lowlight were the sand-flies (did Mike remember the mozzie repellent ...... No!), which absolutely hammered me on my legs and arms right next to the areas that were hammered by the mozzies in Brisbane. I was starting to look like a leper ("unclean, unclean"). That they seemed to ignore Steve and David is an interesting scientific conundrum. We also spent some time looking for Nutmeg Mannikins which are regularly seen here, but without success.
After a very enjoyable couple of hours we headed north-west to Kingfisher Park, run by Keith and Lindsay, a delightful couple who know everything about birding in this part of the world. On the way, we spotted some Sarus Crane, another new one for Steve - David and I rejoiced for him without any sense of concern about his growing list. We arrived after dark, set up our cabins, had some dinner and then David and Steve had a wonderful sleep. As I lay there trying to drown out what can only be described as a snore fight, I remembered why I had enjoyed the last few days by myself.
We took off at dawn to head up Cape York, with the promise of seeing a whole bunch of new birds and a completely new part of Australia for all of us. We were expecting rough outback roads and were rather surprised to find ourselves driving on bitumen for the first few hours. We reached Laura, a small outback town in no time, and ticked our first "Cape York" speciality the Black-backed Butcherbird (Number 10). Greatly encouraged, we headed on to the Musgrave Roadhouse, which is located not far from Lakefield National Park. The Roadhouse was much more extensive than we had imagined with a very impressive pub and cafe area, and an expansive camping section with lush lawn and a great bathroom facility, including a laundry. We filled up on a fantastic fresh, real, not anything like a MacDonald's, huge burger, and then headed off to find Artemis Station and Sue Shepherd.
Sue Shepherd is a legend. She was waiting for us at the homestead, happily greeted us and then leapt onto a quad bike and took off into the bush, with us following in the Pajero. Within a few minutes, she stopped in some very uninspiring burnt out scrub and walked a few metres further on. Suddenly, there in front of us, were Golden-shouldered Parrots, one of the rarest species in Australia and a major target bird on our list (Number 11). We were soon surrounded by a significant flock and they were stunning! We were all seriously happy - we almost hugged Sue! After calming down, we took lots of photos, gave Sue some money to support her care of these beautiful little birds, and prepared to leave. Sue asked what other birds we were keen to see. We tried to suggest without showing our desperation that it would be nice to see a Red Goshawk, but we understood that this even rarer bird was an unlikely target, along with Star Finches and Black-throated Finches. Sue casually responded, "Oh, I know where the Red Goshawks are nesting, and if you go into Lakefield to a certain tree next to a certain small swamp, you will find the finches." Again, Sue was in danger of being hugged.
Fighting the desire to leave in a cloud of smoke and squealing tyres, we took off to chase down the supposedly easy Red Goshawk site. Could it be possible that we would see two very rare species of bird in the space of hour? Oh yes, indeedy! We followed Sue's directions and "Bob's your uncle, Fanny's your aunt", there was a Red Goshawk sitting on a nest (Number 12). High five's, Scottish jigs, shrine erected in honour of Sue, and all was well with the world. The male arrived soon after, and we enjoyed cracking views for about 30 minutes before reluctantly dragging ourselves away. Oh, and I snaffled a Banded Honeyeater (Number 13!). Settled into our camp at Musgrave after a sumptuous meal, with Mike placing his swag at a respectful but considerable distance from the others - sleep came easily, with images of GS Parrots and Red Goshawks making for pleasant dreams.... JOY! This trip was matching all of my hopes - could it possibly last?
Photo courtesy of Steve Potter
Photo courtesy of Steve Potter
Headed into Lakefield NP early the next morning wondering what it would be like - well, it was awesome! Saw over 80 species of bird for the day, with some fantastic highlights - CC Jacana, Plumed and Wandering Whistling Duck, Magpie Goose, Green Pygmy Goose, Brolga, Egrets, Night Heron, lots of raptors, and many bush birds. We picked up Black-throated Finches early (Number 14), along with Long-tailed, Double-barred and Red-browed. We had lunch at Lowe Lake - cracking number of birds, including an early arriving Latham's Snipe, and a few large crocodiles. We then headed on to Sue's "Star Finch spot". As we arrived, about 300 of them took off from a bush and landed close by in another one! Unbelievable!! (Number 15). Steve snapped a brilliant shot (see below), despite the fact that these gorgeous little birds hardly remained still for more than a few seconds. Came across a stagnant pond and Kowalick calmly stated, "I bet there's Barramundi in there." Steve and I scoffed at this suggestion and scoffed even more when David produced a small fly rod and reel and began casting into the fetid water. Our derision turned to disbelief as the master fisherman hooked onto a serious fish and then fought to bring it to the edge of the water. David eventually landed a very respectable 60cm Barramundi and after the obligatory photos, released it back into the water.
Dave and the Fish!
And then "Chook" turned up. Dave (Chook) Crawford is a FNQ bird guide from Mount Molloy and we had a great chat with him about both Lakefield and Iron Range. He then gave us a little local knowledge of a brilliant "night spot" for owls and the like. We thanked him and continued birding till dusk. As the sun went down we headed over to Chook's site and waited. And then the action began ..... Barn Owl, Barking Owl, and then Eastern Grass Owl (lifer for Dave and Steve) all appearing out of the dark, either hovering overhead or landing on the road ahead of us. Then a Stone Curlew, an Australian Pratincole, and a Night Heron. More Owls kept appearing, including a Southern Boobook, along with both Papuan and Tawny Frogmouth. Could it get any better? Yes indeedy. As we moved slowly along in the car we disturbed a Large-tailed Nightjar (Number 16). Ten night bird species in about an hour. Awesome. Staggered back to Musgrave, had a meal and a shower and fell into bed feeling like kings. What a brilliant day. And the trip had only just begun. The next day we would head to the fabled Iron Range. Fell to sleep with many happy thoughts! On to Iron Range in the next instalment.
Photo courtesy of Steve Potter
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